
Faith & stone
Echmiadzin, Zvartnots & Saghmosavank
The mother church of the Armenian Apostolic Church, the ruins of a vast seventh-century rotunda, and a monastery on the lip of a canyon.

Cities & people
Armenia's second city — a nineteenth-century town of red and black tuff that survived two earthquakes and kept its sense of humour.
Duration
10 hours
Group
Small group, max 16
Difficulty
Easy — walking on cobbles
Languages
EN · RU · DE · FR · IT · ES
Worth knowingGyumri can also be reached by train from Yerevan, which is slow, cheap and rather charming. Ask us if you would prefer to go that way and have us meet you there.
Two hours across the plateau, with Aragats on your right the whole way.
Near Artik: a church of St Gregory from the seventh century in the Mastara style, and a cathedral completed in 1201 by order of Zakare II Zakarian, with a twenty-sided drum. The east façade carries a relief of the Zakarian brothers holding a model of the church between them. From 1850 it was the summer residence of the Catholicos.
Gyumri's historic district — whole streets in alternating red and black tuff, cut by hand in the 1870s, with carved balconies and keystone masks over the doors. Almost all of it survived the earthquakes of 1926 and 1988.
On 7 December 1988 a magnitude 6.8 earthquake destroyed much of the city. The official death toll across the region is 25,000, though estimates run as high as 50,000, with over half a million left homeless. Gyumri had around 290,000 people before it; the 2022 census counted 112,301. This is part of the city and your guide will speak about it honestly.
Holy Saviour's Church, built 1858–1872 on the model of Ani cathedral, damaged in both earthquakes and finally reconsecrated in December 2024. Then Sev Berd, a round black-stone fortress the Russian army began in 1834 after the war with the Ottomans.
Gyumri calls itself the capital of Armenian humour and has a canon of named local wits — Poloz Mukuch, Jgher Khachik — whose anecdotes are still told. Lunch is long and the stories are better with a translator.
In the price
Not included
Stops in the order we visit them. Distances are indicative, not a driving route.
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Faith & stone
The mother church of the Armenian Apostolic Church, the ruins of a vast seventh-century rotunda, and a monastery on the lip of a canyon.

Yerevan
A half day through the pink tuff city Alexander Tamanyan drew in 1924, ending in the cellars where Armenian brandy has been made since 1887.

High Aragats
Up the flank of Armenia's highest mountain to a fortress in the clouds and a lake still frozen in June — by way of thirty-nine stone letters.

Want it privately?
Your own vehicle and guide, your own start time, and the freedom to linger where it is worth lingering.